Nope, it’s supposed to do that. That’s just water emptying from your faucet’s aerator and hose.

Remain calm. That’s just the showerhead emptying its reservoir of water, which is a perfectly natural thing for a showerhead to do.

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from under the handle:

•     Remove handle and tighten adjusting ring (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP250).

If leak persists:

•     Replace Ball Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handles or RP212 for knob handles).
•     Replace Cam & Packing (#3 in diagram - Repair Kit RP61).

B = Leaks from aerator:

•     Replace seats and springs (#4 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

•     Replace Ball Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handles or RP212 for knob handles)

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from under the handle:

•     Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP24096)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

B = Leaks from aerator:

•     Replace seats and springs (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

•     Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP24096)

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from under the handle:

•     Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP24096)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

B = Leaks from aerator:

•     Replace seats and springs (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

•     Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP24096)

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from under the handle:

•     Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP24096)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

B = Leaks from aerator:

•     Replace seats and springs (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

•     Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP24096)

 We’re sure your dealer would be delighted to see you. But you probably won’t have to take that step. In most cases, a faucet leak can be repaired with Peerless® Genuine Parts.  If you still have your installation instructions for the faucet, check the troubleshooting section for repair information.

If you don’t have your installation instructions anymore, please visit the Online Catalog to search for your faucet’s maintenance & installation instructions. Once you find your faucet, select Maintenance & Installation for repair information.

If these options don't work, call 1-800-438-6673 or e-mail us for assistance.

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from under the handle:

This type of leak is usually caused by a loose adjusting ring:

• Remove handle and tighten adjusting ring (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP250).

If leak persists:

• Replace Ball Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP12301 or RP70 as indicated
• Replace Cam & Packing (#3 in diagram - Repair part RP61).

B = Leaks from aerator:

• Replace seats and springs (#4 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

• Replace Ball Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP12301 or RP70 as indicated)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

C = Leaks from base of the spout:

Since the water travels through the hose, and not the spout itself, a leak from the base of the spout would be very unlikely. If this occurs, check the connection of the hose to the spray wand. If this connection is secure and not leaking, then check the hose for damage. Replace the hose if it is damaged or leaking.

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from spray head:

• Replace Spray & Hose Assembly (#7 in diagram - Repair part RP39345).

If spray head does not work or divert properly:

• Remove and clean or replace Diverter Assembly (#5 in diagram - Repair part RP320)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

B = Leaks from under handle:

This type of leak is usually caused by a loose adjusting ring:

•  Remove handle and tighten adjusting ring (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP250).

If leak persists:

• Replace Ball Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handles or RP212 for knob handles)
• Replace Cam & Packing (#3 in diagram - Repair Kit RP61).

Read more details on how to fix this problem

C = Leaks from base of spout:

• Replace O-Rings (#6 in diagram - Repair part RP25).

D = Leaks from aerator:

• Replace seats and springs (#4 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

• Replace Ball Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handles or RP212 for knob handles)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from spray head:

• Replace Spray & Hose Assembly (#5 in diagram - Repair part RP39345).

If spray head does not work or divert properly:

• Remove and clean or replace diverter Assembly (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP6073)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

B = Leaks from under handle:

• Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#3 in diagram - Repair part RP1740).

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

C = Leaks from base of spout:

• Replace O-Rings (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP2055).

D = Leaks from aerator:

• Replace seats and springs (#4 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

• Replace Stem Unit Assembly (#3 in diagram - Repair part RP1740)

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from under the handle:

• Replace Valve Cartridge assembly (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP19804)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

B = Leaks from Tub spout:

• Replace seats and springs (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

• Replace Valve Cartridge assembly (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP19804)

If a steady stream of water is running from both the tub spout and the shower head:

• If this is a new installation, there may be an installation problem.
• If this is not a new installation, the problem may be in the push button diverter. Remove and check diverter for debris. Clean as needed. It may need to be replaced (#3 in diagram - Repair part RP5649)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

C = Leaks from shower head:

• Replace seats and springs (#2 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

• Replace Valve Cartridge assembly (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP19804)

If a steady stream of water is running from both the tub spout and the shower head:

• If this is a new installation, there may be an installation problem.
• If this is not a new installation, the problem may be in the push button diverter. Remove and check diverter for debris. Clean as needed. It may need to be replaced (#3 in diagram - Repair part RP5649)

Read more details on how to fix this problem.

First, breathe into a paper bag until your feelings of panic fade. Then keep reading. The parts of the Scald-Guard pressure balance valve that blend the hot and cold water are known as the spool and sleeve. If they aren’t working properly, they may have been affected by mineral deposits building up over time. To solve this problem, follow the steps below based on your model.

Tools you may need:

1. Shut off the water supply.
2.  Remove handle.
3. Twist and pull sleeve to remove it.
4. Unscrew the brass bonnet nut.
5. Remove the cartridge.
6. Soak the cartridge in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for 24 hours to remove any mineral deposits.

NOTE: Unless both hot and cold water supplies are turned on, the pressure balance valve will allow only a dribble of water to flow through the valve.

Helpful Hints:

1. Before removing the valve cartridge assembly for maintenance, note the position of the stop on the cap. The valve cartridge assembly must always be put back in the same position. For normal installations, the stop on the cap will face the left.
   
   BE SAFE! After you have finished the installation, turn on valve to make sure that COLD WATER FLOWS FIRST.
    
2. To remove the valve cartridge from the body, shut off your water supplies before removing the handle and bonnet nut. Do not pry the valve cartridge out of the body with a screwdriver. Place handle on stem and rotate counterclockwise approximately 1/4 turn after the stop has been contacted. Lift valve cartridge out of body.
3. To remove seats and springs, remove valve cartridge. Separate cap assembly from the housing assembly by rotating the cap assembly counterclockwise 90 degrees. Separate cap and housing assemblies. Remove seats and springs and replace. Place the largest diameter of the spring into the seat pocket first and then press the tapered end of the seal over the spring. Reassemble valve cartridge and replace in body following instructions given in 1 above.
4. If the water in your area has lime, rust, sand or other contaminants in it, your pressure balance valve will require periodic inspection. The frequency of the inspection will depend on the amount of contaminants in the water. To inspect your valve cartridge, remove it and follow the steps in Note 1 above. Turn the valve to the full mix position and shake the cartridge vigorously. If there is a rattling sound, the unit is functional. It may be reinstalled following the instructions given in Note 1 above. If there is no rattle, then replace the housing assembly.

Identify the area that is leaking. Then, find the solutions to that area below.

Note: The diagram below is a general representation of this faucet type showing common replacement parts. If you do not find the answer you need here, please use the Support Information Search to find maintenance instructions for your specific model.

Solutions
A = Leaks from under the handle:

This type of leak is usually caused by a loose adjusting ring:

• Remove handle and tighten adjusting ring (#1 in diagram - Repair part RP250).

If leak persists:

• Replace Ball Assembly (#5 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handles or RP212 for knob handles)
• Replace Cam & Packing (#3 in diagram - Repair Kit RP61).

B = Leaks from Tub spout:

• Replace seats and springs (#4 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

• Replace Ball Assembly (#5 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handles or RP212 for knob handles)

If a steady stream of water is running from both the tub spout and the shower head:

• If this is a new installation, there may be an installation problem.
• If this is not a new installation, the problem may be in the push button diverter. Remove and check diverter for debris. Clean as needed. It may need to be replaced (#6 in diagram - Repair part RP5649)

C = Leaks from shower head:

• Replace seats and springs (#4 in diagram - Repair part RP4993).

If leak persists:

• Replace Ball Assembly (#5 in diagram - Repair part RP70 as shown for lever handles or RP212 for knob handles)

If a steady stream of water is running from both the tub spout and the shower head:

• If this is a new installation, there may be an installation problem.
• If this is not a new installation, the problem may be in the push button diverter. Remove and check diverter for debris. Clean as needed. It may need to be replaced (#6 in diagram - Repair part RP5649)

 First, you cry. Then you find out that it’s an easy fix. And you feel a whole lot better. A leaking spout is a good indication that your faucet’s seats and springs are worn (which happens with normal wear). To stop the leak, all you have to do is replace the seats and springs by following these steps:

Here are some tools you may need:

The leak could be caused by worn seats and springs in either the hot or cold valve. This repair isn’t terribly complicated -- so as long as you’ve got your toolbox out, you might as well replace both sets. Once you’ve got that, let’s start disassembling the hot valve.

1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Cover the drain opening with a towel or something, so parts won’t fall down the pipe.
3. If you have lever handles, loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have knob handles, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew the bonnet nut. If it’s not coming off by hand, wrap a towel around the nut (to protect the finish) and turn it with a crescent wrench.
   
5. Pull the stem straight up and out.
   
6. Remove the seat and spring. You can lift them out with a pencil or an Allen wrench.
   
7. Wipe the inside of the body, including where the seat and spring sit, with a soft cloth.
8. Place the new seat over the new spring and insert both into the socket in the body, using a pencil or an Allen wrench. (The small end of the spring goes into the seat, and the large end of the spring goes into the faucet body.)
   
9. IMPORTANT—STEM MUST BE REPLACED PROPERLY.
   • Knob handle stem position: Slip the stem unit into the body, aligning the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the "stop" on each stem points toward the spout.
   • Lever handle stem position: Align the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the "stop" on each stem points toward the right. If you have lever handles, you may also need to reinstall the quarter turn stops to limit the handles from turning more than 90°. Note: If you reinstall the handles and find that they aren’t turning the right direction, rotate the stem 180° and check for proper handle rotation.
     
10. Screw the bonnet nut back on, tightening it by hand.
11. Replace the handle and tighten its screw.

Now, repeat the same process for the cold valve. If your spout continues to drip after you’ve replace the seats and springs, try replacing both stem assemblies.

 First, we need to find out whether it’s the hot or cold valve causing this leak. Let's start by troubleshooting the hot valve:

1. Shut off the hot water supply. If you can't find the shut-off for your tub/shower valve (or if they won’t budge), shut off all the water to your house with your main water shut-off valve.
2. Remove the faucet handle. To do this, you will need a Phillips screwdriver or an Allen wrench (depending on your handle type).
3. Remove the chrome bonnet nut by hand. If the nut’s not removable by hand, use an adjusting wrench (but put a towel around the nut, to protect the finish).
4. Remove the stem extender.
5. Remove the stem assembly by pulling it straight out.
6. Remove the extender and stem assembly.
7. Remove the seats and springs.
8. Examine them for wear or debris and wipe out any debris in the depression where the seats and springs sit in the valve body.
9. Replace the seats and springs.
10. Reassemble the faucet to see if the drip has stopped.

If the drip persists, repeat the above steps on the cold valve.

If you've replaced the seats and springs and the problem continues, replace both stem assemblies.

If all of the above has not fixed your leak, and your valve is more than 10 or 15 years old, it is possible that the actual faucet body may have developed a leak. If so, you will need to replace your tub/shower valve with a new one.

Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

 First of all, how big a stream of water are we talking about? If you’re got the shower on, and the flow from the tub spout is about as big around as a pencil or pen, that’s actually pretty normal. But if it’s bigger than that, you’ve probably got a problem with the diverter located in the tub spout. Unfortunately, this isn’t repairable. The tub spout must be removed, and replaced with a Genuine Peerless tub spout.

To locate a local source for Peerless tub spouts, contact a licensed professional plumbing contractor, or call 1-800-438-6673, or just e-mail us for assistance.

Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

 This is a little tricky, but we’ll get you through it. On a single handle faucet, you need to tighten the adjusting ring or replace the cam and packing.

1. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full-on hot and cold mixed position, and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
   
2. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over-tightening the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces, making frequent repairs necessary.

If there’s still a leak after you’ve tightened the adjusting ring, you may need to replace the cam and packing using Peerless Genuine Parts. And here’s how you do that:

1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Cover the drain opening with a towel so parts can’t fall down the drain.
3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew the cap (counterclockwise) and lift it off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If you still can’t remove it by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper between the cap and wrench, or a heavy cloth (such as a towel) between the cap and wrench. CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A PLUMBER.
5. Remove the cam, packing and ball by lifting up on the ball stem.
   
6. Place the replacement packing and cam over the stem of the ball and engage the tab on the cam with the slot in the body. (The peak of the triangle in the cam for a lever handle faucet will be facing the spout.) Now push down.
   
7. Partially unscrew the adjusting ring, then place the cap over the ball stem and hand-tighten it onto the body, while pushing down on the cam to keep its tab engaged with the slot in the body.
8. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full-on hot and cold mixed position, and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
   

 On a single handle tub or shower, you’ll need to tighten the adjusting ring or replace the cam and packing. Here’s how you tighten an adjusting ring:

1. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
2. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over-tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces. Which, in turn, may necessitate frequent repairs.

If the leak persists, you may need to replace your faucet’s cam and packing using Peerless Genuine Parts. And here’s how you do that:

1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Cover your drain opening with a towel so parts don't fall into it.
3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew the cap (counterclockwise) and lift it off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If it’s still too difficult to remove by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you should place a jar opener gripper (or a heavy cloth) between the cap and wrench. CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND GO CALL A PLUMBER.
5. Remove the cam, packing and ball by lifting up on the ball stem.
6. Place replacement packing and cam over stem of ball and engage tab on cam with slot in body. Push down.
7. Partially unscrew adjusting ring and then place cap over ball stem and hand tighten onto body, while pushing down on cam to keep cam's tab engaged with slot in body.
8. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position, and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
9. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over-tightening of the adjusting ring may cause premature wear of the seal surfaces. This may necessitate frequent repairs – which may, in turn, cause one of your eyes to start twitching nervously. And nobody wants that.

Fortunately, this kind of problem is easier to solve than you might think.  Either your faucet has sediment or debris in it. If that’s not the problem, you’ll need to replace your seats and springs.

First of all, let’s try flushing any possible debris from the system:

1. Remove the aerator (it should twist off by hand).
2. Turn off the water supplies.
3. Turn the faucet handle to the "on" position.
4. Turn the water on at the supply.
5. Flush the faucet and supply lines for one minute.
6. Wash any debris from the aerator before you replace it.
7. Turn off the water using the faucet handle.

Did that solve the problem? If not, your next step is to check the seats and springs, and the ball valve. It’s possible that you may need to replace them, using Peerless Genuine Parts.

1. Shut off water supply.
2. Cover drain opening with a towel, so parts don't fall into it.
3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew the cap counterclockwise and lift off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If it is still too difficult to remove by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper (or heavy cloth) between the cap and wrench. CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND GO CALL A PLUMBER.
5. Remove cam, packing and ball by lifting up on ball stem.
   
6. Remove seats and springs. You can lift them out with a pencil or an Allen wrench.
7. Wipe inside of body with a soft cloth, including where seats and springs sit.
8. Place new seats over new springs  and insert into sockets in body using a pencil or an Allen wrench. (Small end of spring goes into seat and large end of spring goes into the faucet body.)
   
9. If a stainless steel ball is already installed, check it for damage or mineral deposits. Clean it by soaking it in vinegar and wiping it with a rough towel. If the ball appears to be scratched or damaged, you may also need to replace the ball. Place ball into body. (Lever handle faucet bodies will have a small straight steel pin inside; be sure to engage pin with slot on side of ball.)
   
10. Place packing and cam over stem of ball and engage tab on cam with slot in body. (The peak of the triangle in the cam for a lever handle faucet will be facing the spout.) Push down.
    
11. Partially unscrew adjusting ring and then place cap over ball stem and hand tighten onto body, while pushing down on cam to keep cam's tab engaged with slot in body.
12. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
    
    Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over-tightening the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces, which may in turn necessitate frequent repairs.

Hopefully, your faucet has stopped leaking from the aerator by now. But if it’s still leaking, check the faucet's stainless steel liners. If the liners are missing, damaged or sticking up above the brass valve body, you may need to just go ahead and replace the entire faucet.

On a two-handle faucet, try tightening the bonnet. If that does not work, you may need to replace the stem.

 If no one sensitive is in earshot, you might start by swearing a few mild oaths. Then read on. We think the problem may be a blocked or damaged diverter assembly. Follow these steps to solve your leak:

To access the diverter -- Single-handle faucet:

1. Shut off water supply under the sink.
2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.
3. Remove the handle, cap, cam, packing and ball assembly. Gently rotate and lift off the spout.
   
4. Remove the diverter assembly. Be sure to remove the entire diverter.
   
   Insert a flat head screwdriver or an Allen wrench into the body cavity to pop out the diverter. Check for debris on the diverter, as well as in the diverter cavity in the faucet body. A flashlight will help when looking to the back of the cavity.
5. Clean the diverter thoroughly by soaking in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for two hours; reinstall. If diverter appears damaged, replace it with a Peerless® Genuine Repair Part.

To access the diverter -- Two-handle faucet:

1. Shut off water supply under the sink.
2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.
3. Unscrew and remove the spout nut. Use a crescent wrench to loosen if necessary.
   
4. Unscrew the diverter from the top of the body using a coin (if the diverter is plastic) or a screwdriver (if the diverter is metal). Be sure to remove the entire diverter.
   
5. Clean the diverter by soaking in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for 2 hours. Flush any debris from the opening.
6. Replace the diverter and spout nut.
   
   Check to see if the diverter functions properly. If not, replace it with a Peerless diverter.  Be sure that the old diverter seal is removed before install the new diverter. The old diverter seal can prevent the new diverter from operating properly.

Be careful not to over tighten the diverter.

NOTE: Old style metal and current-style plastic diverters are interchangeable.

There are some problems that even an experienced do-it-yourselfer shouldn’t tackle—and this is one of them. Shut off the water supplies to your tub/shower valve. If you can’t find those, shut off all the water to your house using your main shut-off valve. Then call a licensed professional plumbing contractor for assistance.

 That’s a good question. First, look underneath the sink and check to be sure that the strap assembly that operates the stopper is properly adjusted, and that the nut holding the horizontal rod in the drain assembly is secure. Be sure the stopper is properly adjusted.

Note: The chrome cap on the stopper is not designed to be flush with the flange. A seal is created by the weight of the water, which pushes the rubber seal under the stopper against the flange in the sink.

If your drain stopper has been installed to be non-removable, check to see if any section of the pivot rod or strap assembly is hitting something (a bottle of cleaner, for instance) underneath the counter or sink. If that’s what’s happening, then the stopper can't drop far enough to create a seal in the sink. Depending on what is blocking the action of the pivot rod or strap, you may be able to rotate the pop-up sink stopper slightly, so that it no longer bumps against anything under the sink.

If everything seems to be adjusted properly, check the amount of silicone or putty between the flange and the sink itself. (Although a white gasket is supplied with each non-metallic pop-up to seal under the flange, if a sink has an unusually rough surface in the drain area, it may be necessary to use silicone instead of the gasket.) It is possible to determine if there is insufficient silicone or putty under the flange by using a rubber stopper to seal the drain opening only. You can also press down on the stopper to attempt a manual seal, and determine if water is leaking around the pop-up flange. If there is insufficient silicone or putty between the sink and the pop-up flange, water will leak out of the sink into the drain, even with the drain outlet fully closed.

Note: Water will not leak onto the cabinet floor; it will seep into the drain via the overflow holes in the drain body.

To remove a pop-up sink stopper that was installed as irremovable, you’re going to need to work under your sink. Put a pillow under your back, and slide on under there.

1. First, remove the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the body of the pop-up stopper.
2. Lift the stopper out.
3. Reattach the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the pop-up body.
4. Now test to see if water is leaking around the flange, by plugging your drain with a rubber stopper.
5. Do not cover the outside of the drain flange.
6. If the leak continues, remove the flange and apply more silicone or putty under the flange.

To remove the flange:

1. Unscrew the large nut under the sink.
2. Pull the flange straight up through the sink. If the flange sticks to the sink, gently pry it loose.
3. Apply a fresh, uniform-round bead of silicone or putty.
4. Reinstall the flange and tighten the nut under the sink.

Note: Do not rotate the flange or pop-up stopper body after re-installation. Rotation may cause the silicone or putty seal to break, which may cause leakage.

Caution: Before using plumber's putty, be sure to read the warning labels to make sure it won't stain marble or attack plastic sinks or rubber components.